Modifications to our 2001 SunnyBrook 30RKFS before selling April 2008

Trashcan pull chain: Nothing but laziness here...never liked having to pull the trashcan out a few inches to be able to use it.  So I attached a piece of chain and when the door reaches about 60º, the trashcan (on rollers) is pulled out about 4".

Drain cap chain: Dont want to lose the cap from that flimsy piece of rubber and moved to avoid the path of drip.

Snap pins and leveling blocks: Multi-purpose - I can flip them over and use them on flat surfaces.  Our drive is quite steep.

Magnetic door catch on outside door: Knee saver - dont have to go up and down the steps to close the outside door. In the event of strong winds and still wanting to keep the door open, the standard holder still works too .

Pull handle extension: Back saver - this is a piece of 2" dia handrail about 30" long with 2 'L' shaped hooks screwed into the end.  It works great to operate (push or pull) the black and gray holding tank valve handles.

Rain gutter extensions: Put these on all 4 corners.  Clear plastic tubing held on with 1 pop-rivet.

Sewer hose support : PVC and some graduating posts.

Sewer support holders: The support is made up of 1 - 7' 6" long piece of 3" pvc (should probably use 3 1/2 or 4") ripped lentghwise on a table saw and 6 support holders (ive never used more than 3 at a time). My son made the supports - just a piece of 1/4" steel rod welded to a 1" wide 5" long strap - metal fab and powder-coated. I carry them in a piece of 1 1/2" dia PVC just longer than the longest one to avoid puncturing air mattresses and ripping the basement carpets. We also used the PVC to roll up our outdoor carpet.

Sewer hose carrier. Accessible from either end. with holes in the bottom for drainage and ventilation..

Soapdish rail: Soap always seems to end up on the floor and bending over in those small showers...well, we wont go there.  This is a piece of 1/4" thick Lexan - a little shaping to custom fit - super-glued to the outer edge of the soapdish.

Wheel chocks: I made wheel chocks from 6x6 lumber - bevel cut with a chain saw and spaced to match the wheels.  With a 2X4 nailed to the top of both, I can position and removed from 1 side once pressure is removed from the chocks.  The handle for easy lifting.

Night lights connector: Make it simple - never stick a wire into the wrong slot - get a plastic connector for about $4.00 and add a jumper between pins 3 & 4.  Keep the connector in your truck.  When camping at a pedestal plug your trailer/5th wheel into it and you have night lights. Careful...the insomnia police will be after ya

...results of the connector above produces this: